Homeward bound

The car handles SO much better since the tires were taken off in Dawson City and all the mud pressure washed off the insides of the rims. Lots and lots of mud. It was great to be on the homeward leg of the journey. Four days driving ahead, but no gravel or mud.

I’ve now heard some amazing stories of vehicle damage on the Dempster Highway including so many unprepared tourists that have no idea what they are getting in for and haven’t even got a spare tire, let alone any knowledge of what lays ahead. Then there are the stories of broken axels and motorhomes that after 2,000 of gravel sandblasting the undercarriage sewage, waterlines and electrical are gone. WTF?

Left Dawson City for a night in Whitehorse and stopped at the legendary Braeburn Lodge on the way. They’re famous for two things – being an overnight stop on the 1,000 mile Yukon Quest Dogsled Race (different from the Iditarod race) and for their cinnamon buns. Two different people strongly suggested I stop here on my trip and try the bun. Embarrassed to admit I ate it all in one sitting. Absolutely massive.

Stopped for gas in Watson Lake and to see the world famous road sign forest. Started by a homesick US soldier during WWII and the building of the Alaska Highway, there are now over 77,000 signs from all over the world.

Then on to Liard River Hot Springs for a night. Early morning dip was wonderful. Water was hot and only two other couples present. New changerooms and boardwalk. You know you are in the wilderness when the entire multi-acre site is ringed by an electric fence to keep the bears out.

Passed two herds of bison on the north side of the Liard River and another on the south side. Complacent is one way to describe them. Locals don’t like them because they sometimes congregate on the road and simply will not move. Too big and ornery to be afraid of anything.

Passed through Muncho Lake where I worked a summer job at a lodge/gas station/campground. New owners and totally rebuilt. A lot of changes in 44 years. Made me feel old. Interesting how many roadside Mom & Pop lodge/gas stations I passed on this trip are long shuttered and abandoned.